Chilli heat meets the tingling fragrance of Sichuan pepper. Look for má (numbing) and là (hot) on menus, but remember that the tradition also includes gentler dishes.
Spice: Hot
Classic dishes
麻婆豆腐Mápó dòufu
Mapo tofu
Soft tofu in a chilli-bean sauce, commonly with minced meat and Sichuan pepper. Tofu does not make it vegetarian.
宫保鸡丁Gōngbǎo jīdīng
Kung Pao chicken
Diced chicken stir-fried with dried chilli and a savoury, tangy sauce; peanuts are a common ingredient.
回锅肉Huíguō ròu
Twice-cooked pork
Pork belly simmered, sliced and stir-fried with chilli-bean paste and vegetables such as garlic shoots. Ingredients and heat vary.
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Fresh ingredients lead the way: steamed fish, roast meats, delicate broths and dim sum. Usually mild, but dishes and dipping sauces vary. Cantonese traditions also extend into Hong Kong and Macao.
Spice: Mild
Classic dishes
虾饺Xiājiǎo
Shrimp dumplings
Steamed dim sum dumplings with a translucent wrapper and a shrimp filling. Other filling ingredients vary.
叉烧Chāshāo
Char siu
Roast pork with a glossy, sweet-savoury glaze. Often served sliced with rice or noodles.
白切鸡Báiqiē jī
White-cut chicken
Gently cooked chicken, usually served chopped with the bones in and a ginger-based dipping sauce.
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A northern tradition with coastal seafood, savoury broths and carefully controlled braising, generally with less chilli. Jinan and the Jiaodong coast bring different dishes to the same table; seasonings vary.
Spice: Mild
Classic dishes
糖醋鲤鱼Tángcù lǐyú
Sweet-and-sour carp
A Jinan classic: a whole fried carp finished with a sweet-and-sour sauce. Watch for bones.
德州扒鸡Dézhōu bājī
Dezhou braised chicken
A Dezhou specialty of tender, aromatic braised chicken with glossy skin. It is commonly served in pieces; watch for bones.
葱烧海参Cōngshāo hǎishēn
Sea cucumber with scallion
Sea cucumber gently cooked with fragrant scallions in a seasoned broth, a signature Shandong dish.
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Precise knife work, gentle cooking and balanced flavours, typically with little chilli. Huaiyang, Nanjing and Suzhou cooking each have their own character; sweetness and seasonings vary across the province.
Spice: Mild
Classic dishes
狮子头Shīzi tóu
Lion’s-head meatball
Large, tender pork meatballs named for their shape. Preparations vary; Yangzhou versions can include crab meat.
盐水鸭Yánshuǐ yā
Nanjing salted duck
Salted, gently cooked duck, commonly served cool and sliced, often with the bones in.
扬州炒饭Yángzhōu chǎofàn
Yangzhou fried rice
Fried rice with a colourful mix of small-cut ingredients. Egg, meat and seafood combinations vary.
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Freshwater fish, seafood, bamboo shoots and seasonal vegetables, often with mild seasoning. Heat still varies by dish and sauce. Hangzhou’s well-known dishes are one introduction, not the whole story of Zhejiang cooking.
Spice: Mild
Classic dishes
西湖醋鱼Xīhú cùyú
West Lake fish in vinegar sauce
A Hangzhou fish dish finished with a sweet-and-tangy vinegar sauce.
东坡肉Dōngpō ròu
Dongpo pork
Skin-on pork belly slowly cooked with soy sauce, sugar and yellow wine until rich and tender.
龙井虾仁Lóngjǐng xiārén
Longjing tea shrimp
Shrimp paired with Longjing green tea: a lightly seasoned Hangzhou classic.
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Seafood, mountain ingredients and layered broths. Fuzhou’s soup traditions sit alongside southern Fujian snacks and richer satay and sweet-chilli flavours. Many dishes are mild, but sauces and chilli levels vary.
Spice: Mild
Classic dishes
佛跳墙Fó tiào qiáng
Buddha jumps over the wall
A slow-cooked broth combining seafood and meat. Its poetic name does not mean it is vegetarian.
海蛎煎Hǎilì jiān
Oyster omelette
A southern Fujian favourite combining oysters with a starch mixture and egg; sauces vary.
福州鱼丸Fúzhōu yúwán
Fuzhou fish balls
Springy fish-paste balls, often served in soup. Some have a meat filling; ask before ordering.
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Fresh and preserved chilli, tangy notes and smoked or cured ingredients. The emphasis is often chilli heat rather than Sichuan pepper’s numbing sensation, but not every dish is fiery and recipes vary.
Spice: Hot
Classic dishes
剁椒鱼头Duòjiāo yútóu
Fish head with chopped chilli
A steamed fish head topped with chopped, preserved chilli. Expect bones and check the heat level.
毛氏红烧肉Máoshì hóngshāo ròu
Mao-style red-braised pork
Pork belly slowly braised with sugar and aromatic seasonings into a rich, savoury-sweet dish. Recipes and chilli levels vary.
农家小炒肉Nóngjiā xiǎochǎo ròu
Farmhouse stir-fried pork
Thin pork slices stir-fried with fresh chilli, often with garlic and fermented black beans. The peppers can make this very hot.
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Hearty braises, mountain ingredients and distinctive fermented flavours. Huizhou cooking is especially well known; some dishes and condiments bring noticeable chilli heat.
Spice: Mild to medium
Classic dishes
臭鳜鱼Chòu guìyú
Fermented mandarin fish
A signature fish with a distinctive fermented aroma, cooked into a savoury dish; spice levels differ.
毛豆腐Máo dòufu
Fuzzy tofu
Fermented tofu with a characteristic fine white coating, commonly cooked and served with seasonings.
问政山笋Wènzhèng shān sǔn
Wenzheng mountain bamboo shoots
Tender bamboo shoots cooked into a savoury dish, often with meat or ham. Confirm the stock and additions.
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Beijing
Roast duck is only one starting point: Beijing also has wheat-noodle meals and sweet, bean-filled snacks.
Dishes to look for
北京烤鸭Běijīng kǎoyā
Peking duck
Roast duck with crisp skin, commonly served with thin pancakes and condiments.
炸酱面Zhájiàngmiàn
Fried-bean-sauce noodles
Wheat noodles topped with fried bean sauce and vegetables.
驴打滚Lǘdǎgǔn
Soybean-coated rice rolls
Steamed glutinous-rice rolls filled with red bean paste or brown sugar and coated in soybean flour.
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Shanghai
Compare steamed soup dumplings with crisp-bottomed pork buns, then try the city’s sweet-savory style of red-braised pork.
Dishes to look for
小笼包Xiǎolóngbāo
Soup dumplings
Small steamed dumplings with hot broth inside. Let them cool a little before biting.
生煎包Shēngjiānbāo
Pan-fried pork buns
Pork-filled buns with a crisp fried base; some styles add pork aspic that melts into broth.
红烧肉Hóngshāo ròu
Shanghai red-braised pork
Pork belly slowly braised with soy sauce and rock sugar for a glossy, sweet-savory finish.
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Shaanxi
Shaanxi · Xi’an
Flatbreads and noodles make a useful introduction to Xi’an, from meat-filled roujiamo to bread soaked in mutton soup.
Dishes to look for
肉夹馍Ròujiāmó
Roujiamo
Slow-cooked, chopped meat tucked inside a baked flatbread; fillings differ.
羊肉泡馍Yángròu pàomó
Crumbled flatbread in mutton soup
Torn wheat flatbread cooked in mutton soup with meat and bean vermicelli.
油泼面Yóupō miàn
Hot-oil-splashed noodles
Boiled noodles topped with scallions, ground pepper and chilli, then splashed with hot oil.
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Yunnan
These three starting points show different Yunnan staples: rice noodles, Tengchong’s stir-fried rice cakes and steam-pot chicken.
Dishes to look for
过桥米线Guòqiáo mǐxiàn
Crossing-the-bridge noodles
Rice noodles served with hot broth, vegetables and a selection of meat or other toppings.
大救驾Dà jiù jià
Tengchong stir-fried rice cakes
Slices of pounded-rice cake stir-fried with ham, egg, tomato and seasonings; also called Tengchong chao erkuai.
汽锅鸡Qìguō jī
Steam-pot chicken
Chicken with ginger and shallots steamed in a special Jianshui pottery pot, where condensed steam forms the soup.
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Xinjiang
Grilled lamb, rice pilaf and a large plate of chicken with potatoes offer three distinct ways into Xinjiang’s food.
Dishes to look for
烤羊肉串Kǎo yángròu chuàn
Lamb skewers
Grilled lamb skewers commonly seasoned with cumin and chilli. Ask about the seasoning.
大盘鸡Dàpán jī
Big-plate chicken
Chicken and potatoes in a rich chilli-seasoned sauce, served with broad belt noodles.
抓饭Zhuāfàn
Rice pilaf
Rice cooked with meat and carrots; lamb-and-raisin versions are one example, and regional preparations vary.
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Northeast
Northeast China
Harbin’s crisp sweet-and-sour pork sits alongside tangy pickled-cabbage dishes and the potato, eggplant and pepper trio called di san xian.
Dishes to look for
锅包肉Guōbāoròu
Sweet-and-sour crispy pork
Crisp, fried pork slices finished with a sweet-and-sour sauce, associated with Harbin and the Northeast.
酸菜炒肉Suāncài chǎo ròu
Pickled cabbage with pork
Fermented Chinese cabbage stir-fried with pork; the cabbage brings a tangy contrast to the meat.
地三鲜Dì sān xiān
Three treasures of the earth
Potato, eggplant and green pepper, traditionally fried before being coated in a savory, garlicky sauce.
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Guangxi
Guangxi · Guilin, Liuzhou & Nanning
Rice noodles take different forms across Guangxi: Guilin’s seasoned bowls, Liuzhou’s sour-spicy luosifen and Nanning’s old-friend noodles.
Dishes to look for
桂林米粉Guìlín mǐfěn
Guilin rice noodles
Rice noodles seasoned with a carefully prepared broth made with pork, beef bones and aromatic spices.
螺蛳粉Luósīfěn
Liuzhou snail-broth rice noodles
Rice noodles in a sour, spicy snail-based broth, with sour bamboo shoots and chilli oil among the additions.
老友粉Lǎoyǒu fěn
Nanning old-friend noodles
Rice-noodle soup with sour bamboo shoots, chilli, fermented black beans, garlic and meat.
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Guizhou
Guizhou · Guiyang & Kaili
Fermented sour soup and chilli are useful reference points, but Guiyang’s vegetable-filled siwawa and egg-noodle breakfasts add variety.
Dishes to look for
酸汤鱼Suāntāng yú
Sour-soup fish
Fish cooked in fermented sour soup; Kaili’s red soup uses local tomatoes, while white versions use rice fermentation.
丝娃娃Sīwáwa
Guiyang vegetable wraps
Thin rice-flour pancakes wrapped around shredded vegetables, kelp and other fillings, with a hot-and-sour sauce.
肠旺面Chángwàng miàn
Intestine-and-blood-curd noodles
Egg noodles in broth with pork intestine, pork blood curd, crisp fried pork and red chilli oil.
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Shanxi
Shanxi · Taiyuan & Xinzhou
Distinct from neighboring Shaanxi, Shanxi offers wheat-dough knife-cut noodles, steamed oat-flour rolls and the pork specialty guoyourou.
Dishes to look for
刀削面Dāoxiāo miàn
Knife-cut noodles
Noodles shaved from a block of wheat dough straight into boiling water, then served with broth or seasonings.
过油肉Guòyóu ròu
Shanxi fried pork
A traditional fried-pork specialty associated with Linfen and Taiyuan.
莜面栲栳栳Yóumiàn kǎolǎolǎo
Steamed oat-flour rolls
Oat-flour dough shaped into thin tubes and steamed side by side, served with mutton or mushroom soup for dipping.
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Henan
Henan · Zhengzhou & Kaifeng
Mutton noodles and spicy breakfast soup are approachable starting points; Kaifeng’s sweet-and-sour carp adds a crisp-noodle contrast.
Dishes to look for
羊肉烩面Yángròu huìmiàn
Mutton stewed noodles
Noodles, vermicelli and sliced cooked mutton stewed together in mutton soup.
胡辣汤Húlàtāng
Hulatang spicy soup
A spicy soup with mutton or beef, wheat gluten, vermicelli and peanuts; other additions vary by preparation.
鲤鱼焙面Lǐyú bèimiàn
Carp with crisp noodles
A Kaifeng dish combining deep-fried carp and fine fried noodles with a sweet-and-sour sauce.
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Hubei
Hubei · Wuhan
Wuhan’s breakfast tradition makes noodles and filled doupi a natural place to start, with pork-rib lotus-root soup for a different kind of meal.
Dishes to look for
热干面Règān miàn
Hot-dry noodles
Wuhan noodles coated in sesame paste rather than served in a bowl of soup.
豆皮Dòupí
Wuhan stuffed rice crepes
A savory crepe filled with sticky rice, diced meat and mushrooms, commonly eaten for breakfast.
排骨藕汤Páigǔ ǒu tāng
Pork-rib and lotus-root soup
Pork ribs and lotus root cooked together in soup, a Wuhan specialty.
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Gansu
Gansu · Lanzhou
Lanzhou offers contrasting textures: hand-pulled beef noodles, dressed steamed-flour strips and tender lamb with dipping seasonings.
Dishes to look for
兰州牛肉面Lánzhōu niúròu miàn
Lanzhou beef noodles
Hand-pulled noodles in clear beef soup, with white radish, red chilli oil and green herbs.
酿皮Niàngpí
Dressed steamed-flour strips
Steamed flour paste cut into strips and dressed with seasonings such as garlic, sesame paste, chilli oil and vinegar.
手抓羊肉Shǒuzhuā yángròu
Hand-grabbed lamb
Lamb gently boiled with aromatics and served in pieces with dipping chilli or other seasonings.
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Inner Mongolia
Lamb and dairy provide three starting points: simply boiled meat, salted milk tea and milk curds known in Mandarin as milk tofu.
Dishes to look for
手把肉Shǒubǎ ròu
Hand-held lamb
Lamb boiled simply in water, cut into large pieces and served with condiments; traditionally eaten by hand.
咸奶茶Xián nǎichá
Salted milk tea
Brick tea boiled with fresh milk and a little salt; additions and accompaniments can include roasted millet.
奶豆腐Nǎi dòufu
Milk curds
A dairy food made by fermenting cow’s milk and separating off cream and whey, despite the Mandarin name “milk tofu.”
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Hainan
Hainan · Wenchang & Haikou
Wenchang chicken, rice-noodle bowls and coconut-based desserts offer three different introductions to the island’s food.
Dishes to look for
文昌鸡Wénchāng jī
Wenchang chicken
Local chicken commonly poached and chopped into pieces, with a dipping sauce of ginger, garlic, chilli and citrus.
抱罗粉Bàoluó fěn
Baoluo rice noodles
Rice noodles served with a rich broth and toppings such as pork, beef jerky, pickled vegetables and peanuts.
清补凉Qīngbǔliáng
Coconut sweet soup
A dessert combining coconut milk or coconut water with assorted beans, fruit, jellies and other toppings, often finished with peanuts.
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